KATHMANDU TO LUKLA TO PHAKDING
My Everest journey begins today. Ram, my guide, picked me up at the hotel in Kathmandu and we went to the airport. We left on a small prop plane at 8:40 am to our destination, Lukla. I had heard that landing and taking off at Lukla, which is located on the side of a mountain, is an experience in itself. They were right. It is only a 30 minute flight but what a view. The runway seems less than 300 ft. long. After arriving, we hired a porter, Santos, to help with the large bag. We trekked until our arrival at Phakding. I am getting excited.
PHAKDING (2610 METERS) TO NAMCHE BAZAAR (3535 METERS)
Woke up very early at 5:30 am. The stars seemed to be sitting on the peaks of the Himalayas. Today we have walked up and down for 6 hours. It was so difficult and just catching my breath was a hardship. There was a Nepalese woman who looked about 80 years old walking along the same path who passed me while I was resting. About 40 minutes later I passed her while she was resting, then she passed me a little later. This continued for most of the morning but as she passed me again she smiled and that was the last I saw of her. Humbling experience and felt as though she was just toying with me. lol Should have done more cardio. While only the 2nd day trekking I was looking for any excuse to take a breather. (take photos, drink a sip of water or let a group of yaks pass) I finally made it to Namche Bazaar at 1 pm and had a great lunch of yak pepper steak.
Namche Bzaar to Phorste Drenka to Macherma
After an acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar I am getting a little used to the altitude even though I still need to rest frequently. Tuesday morning we climbed up to Syangboche Airport right above Namche Bazaar but only helicopters land there. I met a lot of climbers at the tea house but most were going straight to base camp and not to Gokyo. Gokyo is a much more difficult climb. Rested and shopped in Namche Bazaar for the rest of Tuesday. Wednesday we went to Phorste Drenka {3675 m. } and on Thursday to Macherma {4470 m.}. It was very cold in Macherma. My curtains froze to the window and my water also froze. The Nepalese people that I meet on the trail seem to be the happiest people in the world. They are hardworking but don't seem to realize that they live in poverty or at least what we call poverty. They may in fact be the richest people in the world since they all seem so happy and do not have a care in the world. I would probably smile everyday if I woke up with the Himilayas as my backyard every day.
MACHERMA (4470 METERS) TO GOKYO (4790 METERS)
We left Macherma at 7:30 am and arrived at Gokyo at 11:30. It was a hard trek and a lot of climbing. When we got to Gokyo Lake it was frozen and therefore we realized that Lakes 4 and 5 which we were supposed to visit tomorrow are also frozen.
Saturday March 24, 2007
GOKYO RI (5483 METERS) 17,988 ft.
We left around 6:30 am and everyone was stopping every 20-30 minutes to catch their breath. The climb was incredibly hard but the view at the summit made it all worth while. The day was beautiful and cloud free. You could see the high winds blowing snow off of the peak of Everest. I do wish the lake had not been frozen because it would have been beautiful in the mountain setting. Summited about 10 am and we set on top and looked at Everest in all its glory. The sun was getting hot and we decided to go down after 30 minutes before the ice started melting and the trails got slippery. Later, I realized I had gotten sunburned. Suntan lotion is usually hard to remember at 5 am. We got back at 12:30, I took my 1st shower in 4 days and got a tuna sandwich and tomato soup . I went to the "highest bookstore in the world" but only bought Pringles. Great day!!!!
GOKYO RI TO TANGNAG (Dragnag) 4700 METERS
Left about 8:30 am after almost 12 hours of sleep. 15 hours if you count the afernoon nap. The trek was only 3 hours and not too difficult. But here I am with a whole afternoon of nothing to do. The trek through Cho La Pass will take about 7 hours.
Monday, March 26, 2007
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CHO LA PASS (5330 METER)
Left Tangnag {Dragnag} 4700 meters early this morning with about 9 other climbers. Chola Pass has been closed due to snow for the last month but we heard it had just opened. The 6.5 hrs straight up is one of the most physically challenging things that I have ever done. The scenery at the Pass was incredible with views of the mountains and glaciers at the top. We spent about 15 minutes enjoying the view, ate a quick bite and headed down for 2 more hours to the next lodge. Ram and I tried to cross a mostly frozen stream but both of us got our feet wet. Luckily we were almost to the lodge and we finally got the stove going and got our shoes dried. Great day.
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
LABOUCHE TO GORASHEP
We left Labouche {4910 meters }at 6:30 am and we arrived at Gorashep at about 9:00. It was not too difficult today. It was very cold last night. Our accomodations at the "tea houses" consists of 1/4 inch plyboard walls and tin roofs with no heat. My water bottle froze last night on the nightstand. A warm sleeping bag is essential.
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
KALAPATHAR (5545 METERS)
At 18,192 feet/5545 meters Kalapathar had one of most amazing views that I have ever seen. From the summit, you can view 4 of the top 10 tallest mountains in the world, Changste {24,770 ft.}, Nuptse {25,850 ft.}, Lhotse {27,890 ft.} and Everest {29,035}. I left LaBouch at 6:30 am and arrived at Gorashep at 9:00, put clothes in the room and left 3o minutes later to climb Kalapathar. We summited at 11:40. It was an almost vertical climb and I was exhausted but the view made up for it.
EVEREST BASE CAMP (5500 METERS) 17,900 FT.
Left at 6:30 am for Everest Base Camp from Gorashep. We arrived at EBC at about 9am. Only a few camps are up and running but that will change next week my guide said. I took pictures of the crashed helicpoter which is kind of the official site and also took pictures of Khumbu Ice Falls which people say may be the most dangerous part of climbing Everest. It is unbelievable that you cannot even see Everest from base camp because of mountains in the way. A lot of Yaks and porters carrying supplies to Everest on the trail. Ram said that most climbers start showing up on April 1st.Friday, March 30, 2007
TENG BOCHE MONASTERY
Left Pheriche at 7:30 am and arrived at Teng Boche at 11:00 am. I went straight to the sign that said bakery and had chocolate rolls. You have a beautiful view of Ama Dablam {mother and daughter} and the Monastery is magnificent.
Visitors are allowed to watch the Buddhist Tea Ceremony but are not allowed to talk or take pictures during the ceremony. Several visitors did take pictures and talk and the monks were definitely unhappy about it. I can not believe that people are so disrespectful. These pics were after the ceremony.
BACK TO NAMCHE BAZAAR
I got up at 5:45 am and packed my bag for Santo, my porter. We left at 7:30 am and arrived at Namche Bazaar at 11 am. Much easier walking down. Today I spent the day shopping, relaxing and eating the best meals that I have had since my trek started. Tomorrow Lukla and then Kathmandu the day after. I went to the big local market but most things had closed by the time I got back after getting my camera. The little boy in the picture was outside my room growling and when I opened the door I noticed he had claws on like a tiger. Namche Bazaar is the last place to purchase equipment, clothes and supplies for the trek. It is always busy and very beautiful.
LUKLA
Left Namche Bazaar at 7:30 am and got to Lukla at 12:08 pm. About 1.5 hrs quicker than my guide said we would. Coming down the mountain after being above 18,000 feet for so long makes you feel like Superman. I felt like running most of the way. lol Tonight is the last night of our trekking trip. A razor shave at a local barber which was a little scary, best food of the trip and some celebratory Everest beer. Lukla is the starting and ending point of all trekking in the Everest region. You can find guides, porters and supplies here. Some many trekkers arriving here. Glad I went in March. Tomorrow Kathmandu and then whitewater rafting to Chitwan National Park for hopefully a Tiger sighting. Looking forward to rest and enjoyment my last 9 days in Nepal.
LUKLA AIRPORT TO KATHMANDU
Today is the end of my 16 day trek through the Himilayas with my guide, Ram. I go to the airport at 6:30 am and wait for the 4th Yeti airplane flight. The runway is very short and goes off the side of the mountain. Landing and taking off gets the adrenaline pumping. It is amazing to watch the planes land and take off in such a short period of time. A lot of people from Kathmandu trying to get to the Himilayas and Lukla is the starting point of all trekking through the Everest Trek. The weather was perfect the entire trip. Ram said he had never seen it be cloudless everyday since he has been guiding.
